Guerlain l'Instant Magic

Every time I wear Magic I am amazed by how well it works on my skin. The fragrance is deliciously soft and powdery, quite luxurious and I cannot get enough of it. It also lasts forever on me and I have to be careful not to use too much.

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au thé vert

During summer this fragrance vanishes way too quick but in cold weather it is released softly from under my clothes for most of the day. The tea note is fantastic and my favourite from Bulgari.

Yves Saint Laurent Kouros

I wonder how many cupboards have this tucked away in the back, never to be used. It probably needs only one over-application to put you off this for life. Fortunately I was forewarned and did the sensible thing to under-apply from the start. In fact I spray in front of me and walk into the mist. Kouros starts off pleasantly soft and sweet but then gradually increases in strength over the course of an hour. Even when under-applying you reach the stage where you think, 'o bugger what have I done'.

Correctly applied Kouros delights me each time the fragrance peeks out from underneath my shirt and it lasts most of the day. I prefer to wear this on cold days where I know I am not going to get sweaty because the combination of Kouros and sweat becomes unpleasant.

Guerlain Vetiver

Let me start by saying that I am very weary of vetiver in a fragrance because of its unpleasant reaction on my my skin, becoming cloying and reminding me of b.o. It is fine if it is blended behind other notes but when it moves to the front I run away. My bottle of Guerlain's Vetiver occupies a spot in the back row of my fragrance collection, seldom used, often ignored.

With winter approaching, and cooler days, I have started to wear my less popular fragrances under my shirts as it masks their more undesirable notes and still leaves me feeling properly dressed. Not expecting much I decided to use some Vetiver for a change. The surprise came about 2 hours later when I noticed this divine little fragrance peeking through my shirt. Heavenly. The vetiver is still there but I have to concentrate to catch it.

Guerlain Insolence

Strong stuff. Next time I'll use less. I recently smelled this behind a lady at a convenience store and told myself that I'll never use that much. When I first smelled this I was afraid that it would become nauseating but fortunately that never happened. Insolence to me smells fresh and clean and is perfect for winter.

The Different Company Bois d'Iris

From the first blast hitting your skin to the last traces of the dry down, this fragrance is a pleasure. Just one problem... I doused myself in the stuff and no one noticed, but then I was wearing a long-sleeved shirt and applied it to the inside of my elbows. Even when wearing it with a short-sleeved shirt the fragrance still hugs the skin.

Guerlain Héritage

When I tried Guerlain's Heritage a couple of years ago I was not impressed and quickly dismissed it. I remember it smelling generic, nothing special. Well, it turns out my nose now adore this fragrance. What used to smell old and dated now smells unique and fresh. Recently I found it on sale for a ridiculously low price and it now fills a gap in my collection. Heritage is one of those fragrances that swirls around me, quite sensual and also noticeable. It lies dormant for quite a while but then develops into a full performance.

Christian Dior Addict2

The only way I can enjoy this is by wearing it under a shirt. On uncovered skin the fragrance becomes raw and unpleasant drying down to an uninteresting mess. From under the shirt this really develops into something that you want to wear again. Unfortunately wearing it this way means that it does not last as long but the fragrance lingers nicely on the fabric.

The Different Company Rose Poivrée

Rose Poivree is such a lovely dark rose but is very soft on my skin, almost disappointing. Applying this to the inside of my elbows just won't do the trick. I'll have to try wearing this in a different way if I want it to project more but I'm not prepared to douse myself in the stuff. Like other fragrances I would like to experience this while working at my computer. The sensation I get is of a vase of roses on the far edge of my desk with their wonderful fleeting fragrance gently tickling my nose every once in a while. I would prefer the vase to be closer!

Christian Dior Dioressence

Today is cold outside and I am wearing Dioressence under a long sleeve shirt leaving me feeling a bit cheated as it hides the full glory of the fragrance. This fragrance has been around for a long time and the depth of it is a nice surprise.

I should not like this fragrance, it being slightly old ladyish, but there is a lovely fresh and charming quality to it that keeps me coming back for more.

Etat Libre d'Orange Delicious Closet Queen

This is the smell of a couple of bottles of generic 80's perfume that leaked a bit at the bottom of a makeup bag. Having said that, this is not a bad fragrance, just different. If you are going to wear something called, Delicious Closet Queen, you have to expect a bit of a performance. Considering the name and the hint on paper I only applied a little but this is not that powerful and next time I'll be a bit more adventurous.

Serge Lutens Fumerie Turque

The tobacco note in Fumerie Turque is awesome and together with the supporting notes was what sold it to me. As a non-smoker I should not like tobacco but this reminds me more of a cigar before it is smoked.

The first test on paper left me unimpressed (will I ever learn) and I only realised its full splendour after a skin test on a later occasion. I remember that day, spraying it on my arm then walking over to the bookstore to browse for a gift while giving the fragrance time to develop. I was unable to concentrate on any books as I was knocked over by the effect of this fragrance on me. This is simply one of the most beautiful fragrances ever created.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male

What a sweet little fragrance, and I'm not joking about the sweet either. Fortunately this is not a problem for me as I like this swirling fragrance. What I really enjoy is the hint at Le Male that flare up every so often, almost nostalgic.

I have noticed that when I choose to wear Fleur du Male it is usually on a Friday, probably because I find that this fun fragrance is a pleasant way to end the week and start the weekend.

Guerlain Shalimar

Shalimar makes a Monday bearable, an insufferable date acceptable and rainy weather enjoyable. If ever there was a comfort scent then this be it. Imagine the riot if Guerlain discontinue this. The odd thing is that I have never met anyone else that wears it.

I simply adore Shalimar and can't wait to finish the bottle so that I can buy more! Weird.

Serge Lutens Louve

I loved this when I first tried it and purchased straight away. Imagine my horror when, wearing this to work for the first time, I realised that I was probably wearing too much and as a result the assault on my nose was almost nauseating. I stubbornly refused to scrub it though, hoping for that revelation that I had in the shop. It never came.

Of course I was not about to give up on Louve. A month or so later I tried again and was surprised at how incredible this actually is. A little bit goes a long way and since then I have not been disappointed once. This is so unusual and because I do not wear it often the impact doubles on the occasions that I do.

The Different Company un parfum de Charmes & Feuilles

The dry down was what clinched the sale for me though choosing which one of the garden trio to try was a bit tricky. The bottles all looked way too pretty. After staring at them for a while, picking them up and putting them down again, sniffing the caps, almost spraying then changing my mind (you know the drill), I decided on the the green juice.

There is an ethereal element to this fragrance that can stop me in my tracks to look around for the source. The delicate fragrance does not really project but gently perfumes the air closely around me. Later in the day it becomes more difficult to detect but every so often a wisp of green will remind me of its glorious composition.

Etat Libre d'Orange Nombril Immense

Whoa, this is heady stuff. I applied some on the inside of my elbows and it is knocking me about the head. A colleague remarked on the pleasant citrus sillage but my poor nose could only detect patchouli at that stage. I'm not really complaining though as I kind of like the assault on my nose, probably because of the quality ingredients.

So far all of the Etat Libre d'Orange fragrances that I have tried or own lasts a full day on my skin including - and may it never happen to me again- Sécrétions Magnifiques. Not bad for the money.

Serge Lutens Chergui

I already own some of the other fragrances in the Serge Lutens line so when Chergui became available as an export I could not wait to try it based on the good reviews. It must have been a bad skin day the first time I tried it as I was underwhelmed. Only on the second try did Chergui reveal it's potent nature and what a delightful experience its been ever since.

One must be in the right frame of mind to enjoy Chergui. It is a powerful fragrance and once on the skin you are committed to it for the rest of the day while the interplay of notes tells its story. The story also subtly changes depending on things like the weather and your mood.

Chergui can never be an everyday fragrance, in fact no fragrance can ever be my everyday fragrance, but with Chergui you need time away from it to fully appreciate its brutish charm.

Accord Parfait Heliotrope & Santal

I was aware of Accord Parfait but always passed it by in favour of other fragrances, telling myself I'll try it another day. Well another day finally arrived and what a pleasant surprise. It is different from any other fragrance that I own and the money flew out the purse. Although it wears close to the skin the fairly sweet, powdery and gentle fragrance makes one feel quite special.

What a gem.

Guerlain Habit Rouge

Having tried Guerlain's Heritage before and not liking it I skipped Habit Rouge as I am not fond of traditionally male marketed fragrances and thought this would be similar. What a pleasant surprise when in a moment of indecision I spritzed my wrist with this. What have I been missing all these years! Walking through the mall I kept burying my nose in my wrist to enjoy the magic that was being performed. It was not long before I made my way back to purchase.

I like the gentle sweetness that swirls around me teasing my nose and I have to resist the impulse to apply more. This could definitely become too sweet if overapplied. Sadly because this is the edt it all but vanishes after about three hours but it is so darn lovely and one can always reapply during the day.

Chanel No. 19

Recently I have been thinking about adding a Chanel fragrance to my collection. Years ago, before I realised that one can own more than one fragrance at a time, I bought Allure Homme and dutifully applied it every morning before leaving for work. At the time I thought it smelled pretty good but a recent re-test left me cold. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with Allure Homme but once you have Serge Lutens and l'Artisan in your collection your nose has officially moved on.

Previous attempts at No. 5 and Coco Mademoiselle failed due to the association with my mother. Besides she will have something to say if I ever dare wear the same perfume at the same time as she does! My first impression of Eau Premiere was that here was a Chanel that I must have. If only it did not disappear from my skin after a couple of hours. I still want it though but I'm holding out for an edp version for a while longer.

Today I tried No. 19 edp on the back of my hand just to see what it will do on my skin, taking care not to inhale the initial blast. I have dismissed great fragrances this way before but have learned to be patient and let a fragrance develop. After about 15 minutes I had a tentative sniff and had my initial doubt about the suitability of the fragrance. Here I should note that vetiver does not work on my skin at all. I have a full bottle of Guerlain Vetiver that I purchased blind just because so many people raved about it and now only gets used when I need to remind myself why I cannot stand vetiver. Vetiver turns sharp and becomes cloying on my skin and that same vetiver sits at the front of No. 19 stabbing my nose. I was hoping for the vetiver to subdue but after a while gave up and stopped smelling my hand.

I'll try No. 19 again in a year or so.